History and Tradition of Calico Storico
Updated: Apr 9
If you find yourself wandering the streets of the major cities in Tuscany, Italy during the summer months, you may encounter groups of people dressed in bright, vibrant costumes parading through the historic centers. These are not just ordinary festivals, but the precursor events to one of Italy's most unique sporting traditions – calico storico.
Calico Storico, which translates to "historic football" is an ancient form of football that originated in 16th-century Florence. While it shares some basic rules with modern soccer, it is a drastically different and more brutal game played out more akin to a full-contact medieval battle than a contemporary sport. Let's take a deeper look at the colorful history and customs surrounding this one-of-a-kind tradition.
The Origins of Calico Storico
The exact origins of Calico Storico are debated, but most historians trace it back to 16th-century Florence during the Renaissance. According to popular legend, it was first played in 1530 by the members of the Byzantine aristocracy who were taking refuge in Florence after being exiled from their homeland when it fell to the Ottomans.
Looking to lift their spirits and pass the time, these nobles allegedly began kicking around a stuffed leather ball in the Piazza Santa Croce. The activity caught the interest of local Florentines, who joined in and formed teams divided by neighborhoods or "quarters" of the city to compete against one another. Thus the foundations of Calico Storico were established and quickly became a popular pastime throughout the Florentine Republic.
Historic Matches and Rules
Over the centuries, Calico Storico took on ritualized rules and customs. Teams represented each of the four major quarters of Florence - Santa Croce (blue), Santa Maria Novella (green), Santo Spirito (white), and San Giovanni (red). The matches are held annually in June and take place in a fenced-off 'field' covering the Piazza Santa Croce with two opposing teams of 27 players each.
The objective is to score points by throwing or kicking a leather ball (resembling a modern medicine ball) over a raised circular net at each end of the field. Players can advance the ball by running with it, throwing it, or even using their hands to punch or bat it towards the goal. Essentially anything goes besides physical strikes against the opposing team members.
While scoring the ball is the aim, the real action and excitement comes from the brutality and intensity of the match itself. As players wrestle, shove, and pile on one another, the sandy surface quickly becomes chaotic and frenzied with everyone fighting for possession of the ball. Each match is broken up into two 50-minute halves with a short intermission in between.
The only way to truly be declared the winner of Calico Storico is to score the predetermined number of points to end the match before the time limit expires. Draws are not permitted. If neither team reaches that score, then a "re-match" is ordered to commence immediately and continue until one team reaches the target score.
Over the centuries, Calico Storico has led to many infamous matches marred by violence and riots. This volatile nature prompted leadership in Florence to ban the tradition altogether for a period in the 18th century, only for it to eventually return by popular demand.
Traditions and Rituals
As a mainstay of Florentine culture for over five centuries, Calico Storico has taken on deep historical rituals and traditions. Before each year's matches, the various teams perform elaborate parades called 'Corteo Storico' through their respective neighborhoods.
These parades feature hundreds of participants dressed in historical Renaissance costumes including drummers, flag-bearers, costumed allegorical figures, and even men on horseback commemorating personalities from that quarter's history. The players themselves march while wearing vibrant colors representing their neighborhood with chain mail, breeches, and other uniforms reminiscent of the styles worn in the 1500s.
At the opening ceremonies on the evenings before each match, the teams and supporters congregate and chant fight songs while waving flags and banners of their colors. Young 'peasant' boys known as rencioli take part by acting as ball retrievers during the matches to collect and return balls kicked out from the field.
Pageantry is key at the Calico Storico matches. Each is preceded by an honorary parade of Renaissance nobility impersonators and display of period chivalry. A 'duce' from each team, dressed as a medieval lord, will deliver a motivational 'battle speech' to pump up his players before they take the field.
Make no mistake, despite the archaic trappings, the Calico Storico is a full-contact competition that often devolves into violence between the opposing sides. Over the centuries, there have been countless injuries, brawls, and even several deaths resulting from the heated matches, earning it a reputation as one of the most violent 'sports' in history.
But it is also this intense atmosphere and deep pride involved in representing one's neighborhood that truly captures the spirit of Calico Storico. It allows modern Florentines and visitors alike to connect with the passionate civic rivalries and culture that defined Florence in its golden Renaissance age.
Attending Calico Storico
If you find yourself in Florence from late May through June, you'll have a chance to experience the magic and mayhem of Calico Storico firsthand. Matches take place annually on several dates in June leading up to the championship finale on June 24th (the feast day of the city's patron St. John the Baptist).
Be sure to procure tickets well in advance as the hotly anticipated matches will sell out quickly. Spectators are seated in the stands and bleachers overlooking the fenced-in field in the Piazza Santa Croce. The best viewpoints are offered from the premium seating sections.
Whether you have general admission or premium reserved seating, you're in for an unforgettable spectacle. Make sure to arrive very early to obtain a good spot and witness the incredible 'Corteo Storico' parades leading up to the opening ceremonies. Come prepared for hours of raucous entertainment and don't be scared off by the intensity when fists and bodies start flying!
Above all else, seeing Calico Storico in person offers a rare opportunity to experience how civic pride, cultural tradition, and even brute violence combined to make Florence such a cauldron of Renaissance dynamism and spirit in the 16th century. For a few hours, you'll be transported back to the grit and glory of that era through the sheer spectacle and authentic pageantry involved in this one-of-a-kind sporting event.
While it remains a niche tradition localized to Florence and its environs, Calico Storico has evolved into one of the most unique and bucket list-worthy attractions in Italy. I dare say, it's an experience no passionate sports fan, cultural enthusiast or lover of history should miss out on if given the chance.
Beyond the Pageantry: A Florentine Festival for All
Calcio Storico isn't just for hardcore sports fans. The entire month of June leading up to the championship is a festive time in the city of Florence. Neighborhoods come alive with traditional food stalls offering local delicacies, and evenings are filled with open-air concerts and cultural events. Immerse yourself in the energy by participating in a pre-match "cena" (dinner) alongside local supporters, or visit the Calcio Storico museum to delve deeper into the history and traditions of this unique Florentine treasure.
